Legatoria

One of the best things about this trip has been encountering small workshops like these--usually tucked away in a quiet ally far from the tourist hustle and bustle.  This bookbinder in Florence has been at his craft for over forty years and has produced custom leather bound books for many high end clients--including Ralph Lauren.  He was very kind and let me wander around his shop snapping away while we chatted.

Baci dal Cielo

by Nicole Bravo

Our final evening in Florence was the most memorable. After a three-course meal at Il Contadino, a local blue-collar workers hub, we set out in hopes of encountering the local music scene.  We wandered toward a piazza off the beaten tourist track, which our host had told us about (3km northeast of Ponte Vecchio).  Making our way into the locals-only gathering, we heard a very different kind of music than we'd heard thus far.  We also saw various people dancing in a way we'd never seen before. 

It was not your usual stage setup with musicians staggered on a platform; there was actually no stage at all.  At one side of the square, with pieces and parts of a sound system, was a group of musicians.  You had your lead singer on the acoustic guitar, three tambourine players playing slightly different rhythms that all worked together, a trumpet player, and a jack of all trades switching between the bass, accordion, and ukulele, sometimes all within one song.

The band played upbeat music and mostly women danced, with scarves in their hands.  I sat for a while, playing an imaginary tambourine on my leg, trying to get their complicated rhythms just right.   One man stepped away from the band, handed me his and showed me how to play it.  Just then, a new song commenced and it was no longer mostly ladies on the dance floor but everyone joined in this traditional group dance.  My partner and I danced side by side for a few moments following the couple in front of us in a big circle. Then we all joined hands and danced together kicking our feet toward the middle and winding around the square like one long snake. There was no form or order, you just followed what the people around you were doing. Every now and then someone would rise up as a self-appointed leader and change the dance and everyone would follow suit.  Sounds of laughter, music, and the pitter patter of feet wafted up toward the skies and the heavens joined in our revelry as raindrops began to kiss our faces and follow in our footsteps. Eventually the song ended, as did our dance, and we were astounded that even the skies held back the rain once the music stopped.

When in Rome...

Rome was a great city for wanderers like us.  The weather was perfect, and while meandering off the beaten path we'd find ourselves in areas with mostly locals, the streets lined with towering trees, and produce stands scattered about. Or, as often happened, we would be gazing upon lovely buildings with amazing architecture in early morning light and all of a sudden find ourselves beside the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain, or even the Colosseum.

Fish Out of Water

by Nicole Bravo

Step inside the fish market and the first thing to greet you isn't a person, but the wretched stench of fish. I enjoy eating seafood but an hour in there was enough to make my stomach turn for quite a while afterward.  All of the fishmongers were wearing hefty boots and there we were with our sneakers, carefully lifting our feet at each step as we trudged through a half-inch layer of water and fish guts covering the floor.  Surely we would be giving our shoes a good scrubbing later.  We passed one man swiftly slicing off fish scales into the walkway and many others having a smoke in front of their stands.  These men were intimidating and unapproachable, yet somehow Lauren managed to soften them with her smile, enough even to make some of them smile.

Βακερy

It's nearly impossible to walk more than a couple of blocks in Greece without stumbling upon a hole-in-the-wall bakery.  Our first day in Greece, while walking through the Laiki, we discovered a bakery just a block from the flat where we were staying called ZIAKAΣ.  I am nominally carb-conscious at best, but I had to completely throw that out the window as I stared through the glass at an innumerable amount of, flaky, airy, golden goodness. For less than two Euro, or "Evro" as they say it, you can walk out with a delicious breakfast, or afternoon snack. They come in every variety, filled with chocolate or creme, various cheeses or meats, all of them delicious, warm and filling.